Thursday, 13 January 2011

Tutorial 1- feedback/action plan

-Quote before essay
-incorporate at least 2 (academic)
-Fashion/beauty industry with the economy ,profits (statistics)
-how much is spent on advertisng ?
-(effetcs of this)

Representations
-The concepts of representation
-How representation works
-general representation quotes (academic)
-how the media constructs the world -(MEDIATION)
Use examples
What is the feminie ideal ?
-Historical changes(from Marylin Manroe to Twiggy)
-current fasination with size zero

Stereotyping -(PARTRIARCHY,FEMINISM)
-typical female roles
-VOYERISM,'MALE GAZE',SCOPOPHILIA
(dumb blonde,madonna/whore-(BINARY OPOSITION)
( lady gaga )-postmodernism fashion (Alexander Mcqueen,Guo Pei,Manish Arora)

Monday, 3 January 2011

Task 6 Introduction


How does fashion/beauty advertising, such as for perfumes, perpetuate the feminine ideal of size zero, does it influence young teenage girls/models and why?

“Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels’’This quote was what struck the size zero controversy to reinforce moral panics in the fashion industry, when Kate Moss the 35 year old model shocked campaigners fighting to abolish the cult of stick-thin models. From the mid 1960’s British model Twiggy changed the fashion trend of being curvy forever. As her skinny size 8 figure ushered in the trend, she implied that a fashion model or any desirable woman must be a size 0 or 2, in order to be fashionable or as it has been portrayed in films and magazines, desirable, that thin is in. The media have a powerful impact on audiences as they reinforce negative body image and influence young teenage girls to follow the thin is in trend .“The media is the main source of information about women’s health issues” for adolescent girls. In addition, National Eating Disorders Association finds that,“1 out of every 3.8 television commercials sends some sort of ‘attractiveness message,’ and the average adolescent sees an estimated 5,260 attractiveness messages per year.’’.Advertisements emphasize thinness as a standard for female beauty, and the bodies idealized in the media are frequently a skinny body image. No wonder our perception of beauty is distorted. Every girl deserves to feel beautiful just the way she is.’’ “Campaign for Real Beauty”, kicked off in 2003, it aimed to encourage adult women to help girls and teenagers feel better about themselves. The first campaign took six real women in white underwear from different sizes and shapes, feeling confident and happy to help reinforce a positive body image. This essay will investigate how and why the size zero controversy is the next big trend, and how fashion and beauty perpetuate size zero as being a feminine ideal particularly in advertising for perfumes and how it has such a big impact on influencing young teenage girls.

Sunday, 2 January 2011

Task 5 Essay Plan

(Introduction- a brief description to my independent study)

I will be investigating how fashion and beauty advertising such as perfume adverts and print advertisement represent size zero as a feminine ideal and the obsession with being size zero and does it really influence young girls/models to follow the trend of being freakishly skinny and why do they want to follow this trend?Why do most young girls want to be size zero? What appeals to them about being size zero? Do they really think they look good? Where did this controversy develop from? How did it develop?
My target audience-demographics, social class, interests, age


  •  (The size zero controversy)
  • What is it? What is the big issue about size zero? What is the appeal of it? The attraction.
  • Why it is? Why does this controversy hold such power? (The hypodermic model) the weaknesses of the debates influence, why does it have such powerful influence? Why is it a feminine ideal?
  • Who? Who exactly is it targeted at? Who does it appeal to? Who holds the influence of the controversy?
  • When? When did the issue become an influential debate? When did the trend of size zero begin?  from Marylyn Monroe’s curvy size 12 to Twiggy’s skinny size 8 to Kate Moss’s size zero.(Historical texts )  
  • How? How is it such a controversy? How does it hold powerful influence on young girls? Media influence? Magazines? Role models?
1.Do the Media representations of size zero models reinforce the stereotypes of the size zero controversy and how?  
I will be investigating the representation of the feminine ideal of size zero in the media with examples of media texts using the evidence from textual analysis’s and quotes; I will also be looking at the representation of teenage girls that hold influence of the controversy. For example teenage girls who develop eating disorders which put their lives at risk. Teenage girls with low self esteem, Pressure from role models. ''There is a good deal of pressure on teenage girls to be thin, but they need to be aware that this could endanger their developing skeleton and put them at increased risk of osteoporosis’’. –I am going to use this quote to talk about the pressure that the media hold on teenage girls reinforcing the stereotypes of size zero. This quote will also link to The Media texts which I am going to use which reinforce the stereotypes of size zero-
(Vogue magazine, look magazine, perfume commercials featuring size zero models) (E.g. Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman)  (M, R, A)


2.The media effects of the controversy on the audience, also reinforcing the stereotypes of size zero.
In this paragraph I am going to talk bout the media effects which also reinforce the stereotypes of the controversy. How it holds the powerful influence on the stereotypes.e.g showing the glamorous appeal of models,” Controlling weight and shape has become a moral imperative for many young girls," I am going to use this quote to talk about the effects which the media have on reinforcing the stereotypes of size zero. The issue of low self esteem and conscience of body image, following the trend to look like their role models. "It's almost a sign of goodness to be slim,"-I will link this to Kate Moss and her influence on reinforcing stereotypes of the size zero controversy. And being pressured   
'Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels'.-I will also link this quote to the media effects reinforcing stereotypes. As this also reinforces the feminine ideal of size zero. This will also be linked to how media effects are created to develop the influence of size zero and also reinforce the stereotypes. I will also use this quote to talk about the huge amount of controversy Kate moss created when she first came out with her motto. "Millions of girls aspire to be like Kate Moss. These comments are shocking and irresponsible."-this quote will also link to this paragraph. (M.R.A.I)


3.The influence of media technology and the digital revolution
In this paragraph I am going to talk bout the use of media technology used to promote the beauty of the models to the audience, and how this also reinforces stereotypes with stronger influence such as magazines images of models and fashion .'She looked beautiful in the face, but really thin and unwell. That's not a reflection of what we do in our magazine, which is about good health.' –I am going to link this quote to show the media influence on the audience with the use of magazine images and posters. I am going to use evidence of textual analysis’s of print magazines which show unhealthy size zero models made to look healthy and beautiful with the use of media technology. (M.A,I,V)


4.The impact of news values on the audience
In this paragraph I will be talking about how Journalists and broadcasters use powerful and influential imagery and exaggeration to seek a passive audience.  The influences are everywhere. Images of women, teenagers, models, and famous people who are extremely thin dominate the media. Such intense scrutiny is placed on the weight and body images of women that the rates of anorexia, bulimia, and other related eating disorders have skyrocketed in recent years. “The media is the main source of information about women’s health issues” for adolescent girls. In addition, NEDA finds that,
 “1 out of every 3.8 television commercials sends some sort of ‘attractiveness message,’ and the average adolescent sees an estimated 5,260 attractiveness messages per year.”-I am going to link this quote to this paragraph as it shows the evidence of the influence the media send out to a passive audience promoting negative body image.(I,V,I,M)   


5. Moral panics in the fashion industry
In this paragraph I will be talking bout the moral panics developing in the fashion industry due to the size zero controversy and the media’s influence reinforcing the moral panics. However I will also argue against the controversy, 'It was one of the points we made. You can't say to models, "you can't work because you are black or because you are blind", so why should you be able to say "you are too thin to work"?-I will link this quote to my study as I am going to argue against the controversy as some models just appear to be naturally skinny or slender.
"I'd like to see it expanded," says Franklin. "Use a standard woman. Not a woman who is six foot and UK size eight. That was never what Cindy Crawford or Linda Evangelista was. They were much curvier."-I will link this quote to my study as I will be arguing about the moral panics raised in the fashion industry causing conflicts between designers that want to use plus size models and designers refusing to use plus size models,
"Take the issue into government".-this quote will link to my study as I will be talking about the moral panics within the fashion industry as to take drastic action to make a change to the skinny trend. "We're saying all women are beautiful," Franklin counters. "Some are older. Some are standard-size. We're not in conflict with the fashion industry. We're just saying, 'Let's celebrate a broader range'."


6. Postmodernsim in fashion
In this paragraph I will be talking about the size zero controversy in postmodernism fashion and how the trend has changed form being a curvy size 14 to a size zero. ’’ The fashion industry was instantly blamed, but was it entirely their fault? more size zero models appeared on the catwalk and designers started manufacturing their clothes in size zero’’-I will use this quote to link to my study as to how the trend has changed and how it has become an influential controversy to contemporary fashion. Here I will give evidence from textual analysis from the use of historical texts.(M,R,A,I,V)


7. From Marilyn Monroe to twiggy
"Whether you're thin, fat, small, dark, blond, redhead, you want to be something else," said the world's first boldface supermodel. "I wanted a fairy godmother to make me look like Marilyn Monroe. I had no boobs, no hips, and I wanted it desperately’’.
In this paragraph I will be talking about the change form the curvy trend to the skinny trend form the past and how it has changed to influence such young girls and their health and will it ever change. To show the beauty of bigger models and design clothes to fit bigger curvier bodies.I will also be talking about how Marilyn Monroe is still an icon and her curvy body is still a trend which also influences some young girls to stay healthy and curvy.(M,R,A,I,V)
'I would look in the mirror and not feel like a woman. I didn't feel sexy. People in the fashion industry were like, "Oh my god, you look beautiful." But I didn't feel like myself when I was thinner.'-I will use this quote to show how women like Beyonce embrace their curves and should also have an impact on young girls and influencing them to be healthy.


8.Hypodermic Model
The effects of the audience from which the media injects messages directly into the minds of the viewers/listeners/readers, powerless to resist the media impact over us. this approach draws attention for the power that media providers have. This injected audience is seen as passive and powerless.(M,R,A,I,V)       
  
9. Cultivation theory
As audiences watch more and more film and television they gradually develop certain views about the world, some of which are false –In this paragraph I will be talking about the media’s influence on society due to the fashion industry and women being influenced to follow the media’s stories and becoming passive and vulnerable to follow false trends.(M,R,A,I,V) 


10. Hegamony
 A theory of ideology as ideas, beliefs and values, established by the dominant culture in society. It draws attention to the fact that audiences gain a lot of their knowledge about the world form the media and recognizes the important role the media have in our lives.(M,R,A,I,V) 


11. Conclusion –Media industry VS fashion industry
To conclude I will be summarizing my key points as to answering my independent study. I will be discussing as to if advertising does influence young girls to follow the size zero trend and the controversy between the media industry vs. the fashion industry.

Task 4 Additonal Web Research

1.  Size zero is bad news for bones
http://www.bris.ac.uk/news/2010/6775.html 
''There is a good deal of pressure on teenage girls to be thin, but they need to be aware that this could endanger their developing skeleton and put them at increased risk of osteoporosis''.
This relates to my study as it is raising awareness about the dangers of being size zero, as teenage girls are being influenced by the media to being pressured into becoming a size zero. It shows academic results for proof of teenage girls suffering from size zero diseases.

2.  Paris fashion week declares slender, young models out of style
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/oct/03/paris-fashion-week-unconventional-models
"When the fashion is really excellent, it looks even better on older models, because they have more presence. The clothes take on personality, and that is a huge part of what fashion is about."

"Instead of a fuss being made about a few cause célèbre exceptions on the catwalk, what I'd really like instead is for most models to be a size 10 rather than a size eight,"
This relates to my study as it is showing the improvements the fashion industry is making to influence the younger generation as it is bringing the controversy of size zero to an end as the media will also follow the trend of this and use this to influence young teenage girls.   

3.Paris fashion week heralds the post-size zero age
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/sep/30/paris-fashion-week-plus-size-models
Posen said backstage after his show that he wanted to make clothes "for women who love life, and all the best things in it – sex, friendship, food".

4.London fashion week women storm catwalk to end tyranny of size zero
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/sep/19/london-fashion-week-size-zero
Franklin, explains: "It's a real shift since last year, when no one had an opinion about body shape. Now you can't move for soundbites about Christina Hendricks." 

 Westwood said: "Ideal beauty is not what interests me." She simply likes a woman, she added, "who takes the trouble to look good and show off her best assets".

"I'd like to see it expanded," says Franklin. "Use a standard woman. Not a woman who is six foot and UK size eight. That was never what Cindy Crawford or Linda Evangelista were. They were much curvier."

5.Teen girls starve to look like 'size zero' role models
http://health.ninemsn.com.au/healthnews/1011005/teen-girls-starving-to-look-like-size-0-role-models
"Controlling weight and shape has become a moral imperative for many young girls," she told the Daily Mail. "It's almost a sign of goodness to be slim," she said

"There is a risk of getting into a starve-and-binge routine which is very unhealthy and has been rapidly increasing in recent generations."

6. Size zero = twig… nice
Zeal writer Kimberley
The 'size zero' debate is an issue for young people. Zeal writer Kimberley looks at the pressure on teenage girls to be thin.http://www.bbc.co.uk/essex/content/articles/2007/04/04/zeal_size_zero_feature.shtml
''I'm a comfortable size 10 and when I look at all these size 0 models I feel happy as I know I am healthy and not at risk to any health problems''. 

7.Young teen models may face catwalk ban
http://uk.reuters.com/article/idUKL1175770420070711
"We have grave concerns about other health areas, such as drug and alcohol abuse and the stress caused by working conditions for model," the panel's interim report says.

"We are also concerned that modelling is very much a hidden profession with very little transparency about the working conditions that many models have to endure."

8.'Plus-size' models still rare on NY and London catwalks
http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/plussize-models-still-rare-on-ny-and-london-catwalks-2080929.html 

"Every year I watch the shows and I hope to see it, you know, 'is she a size 12, is she that little bit bigger?' and so far every year I've been a little bit disappointed,"

"We are getting more editorial work and more of that high fashion work, which is great, but it still needs to get a bit bigger and we need those high fashion brands catering for these beautiful curvy women."

9.Size zero or plus-size: all models bad for self-esteem
http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/size-zero-or-plussize-all-models-bad-for-selfesteem-1803952.html
 "Underweight women's self-esteem always increases, regardless of the model they look at,"

10.Fashion for size zero fuels rise in eating disorders among models
http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/health-and-families/health-news/fashion-for-size-zero-fuels-rise-in-eating-disorders-among-models-456174.html
"They are purging or drinking huge amounts of water to conceal their weight. It is highly dangerous because it deprives the body of potassium. Women can drop dead."

11.Size-zero debate: fashion industry is told to 'grow up'
http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/health-and-families/health-news/sizezero-debate-fashion-industry-is-told-to-grow-up-449862.html
"I feel very strongly that curves are natural, womanly and real."

12.Size-zero hero: Fashion's high priestess calls time on 'size zero'
http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/news/sizezero-hero-fashions-high-priestess-calls-time-on-size-zero-1704680.html 
"It's about expanding the imagery that comes out of LFW so that women can for once see themselves mirrored [in the catwalk photos]."

13.Size zero girls 'less attractive'
 http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/edinburgh_and_east/8327750.stm
''People in the normal weight range were judged healthier and more attractive than under or overweight individuals.''
Professor David Perrett
University of St Andrews


14.When a Size Zero Isn't Thin Enough
How the Media Perpetuates Negative Body Image
http://www.suite101.com/content/when-a-size-zero-isnt-thin-enough-a124709
“the media is the main source of information about women’s health issues” for adolescent girls. In addition, NEDA finds that,
 “1 out of every 3.8 television commercials sends some sort of ‘attractiveness message,’ and the average adolescent sees an estimated 5,260 attractiveness messages per year.”

15.Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels
http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/showbiz/bizarre/2735440/Kate-Moss-reveals-her-life-motto-Nothing-tastes-as-good-as-skinny-feels.html
"Millions of girls aspire to be like Kate Moss. These comments are shocking and irresponsible."

16. Size Zero Models Fuel the Rise In Eating Disorders, UK
http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/104263.php
"dangerous influence on the public"

17."Negative" Sizing: The Size Zero Debate
http://www.piercemattie.com/blogs/2006/10/what_happens_after_zero.html"I've noticed that other companies are sizing up. I used to go buy pants and would wear a 6, but they started to be too big. Now a 4 is too big," Miller said.

18.Skeletons on the Runway: The “Size-Zero Debate”
http://www.britannica.com/blogs/2006/11/skeletons-on-the-runway-the-size-zero-debate
 
“I don’t think it is fair to say that I’m responsible because I’m a thin person, that because I’m influencing their style I’m influencing what they eat.”

19.Why women must win the size zero debatehttp://women.timesonline.co.uk/tol/life_and_style/women/beauty/article6890572.ece“Campaign for Real Beauty”,
20.Is our obsession with size zero damaging health?http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/health/8510160.stm''Acquiring healthy self-esteem which is not based predominantly on body shape and weight is critical for lasting emotional and physical health. ''

21.Skinny model is airbrushed to make her look FATTER on front cover of health magazine
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1278795/Skinny-health-magazine-cover-model-Kamilla-Wladyka-airbrushed-make-look-fatter.html'She looked beautiful in the face, but really thin and unwell. That's not a reflection of what we do in our magazine, which is about good health.'
22.Do thin models warp girls' body image?
http://www.usatoday.com/news/health/2006-09-25-thin-models_x.htm
," Lamb says, from ads, catalogs and magazines to popular TV shows such as America's Next Top Model and Project Runway. "They are seeing skinny models over and over again."

23.Models' threat to sue blocked size zero ban
http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2007/feb/11/deniscampbell.vanessathorpe
'It was one of the points we made. You can't say to models, "you can't work because you are black or because you are blind", so why should you be able to say "you are too thin to work"?.

24.Naomi defends fashion industry over size zero
http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/showbiz/article-23385371-naomi-defends-fashion-industry-over-size-zero.do
"You can't blame the industry for a psychological disease.
"It is a disease, like alcohol or drugs, and the industry is not to blame."

25.Why are models still so thin?
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2010/mar/14/kira-cochrane-thin-models
 "jutting bones and no breasts or hips"

Task 3 Historical text analysis and research

TEXT 1 -Channel No5 -Share the fantasy -1980

RESEARCH
The most memorable 28 seconds ever broadcast on commercial TV was appropriately, a commercial. But what a commercial! This 1979 commercial for Chanel No. 5 perfume, set to a cover of the 1941 Inkspots hit « I don’t want to set the World on Fire » was directed by the famed Ridley Scott.
Classic commercial. This original ad played every Christmas season until the early 90′s. Directed by Ridley Scott with music by Vangelis. Reimagined in the 2009 film « The Watchmen » as a fictional ad.
Brand: Chanel
Year: 1979
Artist: Vangelis
Song: The Little Fete
ANALYSIS
The first shot of the advertisement is a long shot of a garden view and a mansion in the far back as it cuts into the next scene a medium shot of the women’s behind and backless swim suit is showing as she drops down her robe and sits in front of a pool. This portrays her image as a sex symbol for the male audience. There are continuous medium shots and close ups of her body emphasising her sex appeal. The use of sound is non diegetic and voice over narration as the women speaks of her feelings. The advertisement is set by an outside pool in a large garden, as the women is fantasising and sun bathing she see’s a man appear in front ,jumps into the pool and then swims over to her. This shows her fantasy that she shares with the audience using the fragrance as the channel No 5 fragrance is share the fantasy.               
LINKS 
http://www.modego.com/share-the-fantasy-chanel-no-5-commercial-i-dont-want.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chanel_No._5
How is it similar/different to your texts?
The channel No5 share the fantasy advertisement is similar to my contemporary texts as it uses the typical iconographies and cinematography of perfume advertising. However it is also different to my text as it does not contain much explicit nudity and sexual connotations as my contemporary texts, as the advertisement was set in the 1980’s women had equal rights but were still subordinated in a patriarchal society. Although the women in the channel No5 share the fantasy commercial is also portrayed as a sex symbol. Although the women that appear in the commercials in the 1980’s have power and dominance as the model in the channel commercial is represented as a diva and controls the male attention using her appearance and sex appeal.              
This advertisement shows how the society has not changed as in most contemporary perfume advertising women and men are over sexualised and misrepresented .where as in the channel 1980’s ad the women is still portrayed sexually for the male audience.

TEXT 2- Channel No5 original -1953

RESEARCH
In addition to being Marilyn's favourite scent, Chanel No. 5, like many other iconic brands, secured a place in the art world. In 1959 Andy Warhol, an icon himself, did a series of nine silkscreens of the Chanel No. 5 bottle, once again making it the fragrance to covet.
The fragrance now sells a bottle every 30 seconds and is the top selling fragrance in the world. Celebrities still flock to wear it, and the latest spokesperson is Nicole Kidman, now reportedly one of the highest earning ad celebrities as a result. The adverts are based on Baz Luhrman's Moulin Rouge, a movie in which (perhaps not coincidentally), Nicole pays tribute to Marilyn Monroe in singing her own adaptation of Marilyn's "Diamonds are a Girl's Best Friend".
As Marilyn Monroe once famously said “What do I wear in bed? Why Chanel No. 5 of course”. This is probably the most famous of Marilyn's quotes and undoubtedly what gives Chanel No. 5 such appeal. Who wouldn't want to smell like Marilyn? That is not however the beginning and the end of the story. Chanel No. 5 is a very carefully planned and created scent both in the philosophy behind its creation and the inspiration for its fragrance.

ANALYSIS
The commercial begins black and white with a medium shot of Marylyn Monroe on a cinema screen as she is sitting in disguise in the audience watching her own movie as a close up of her chest is shown as her breasts appear to become large and a close up shot of her hair turns blonde as the screen turns into colour she opens the bottle and the audience turn in her direction in shock as she says the channel No5 fragrance the women repeat her words as they are attracted to her scent. The mise en scene is in the cinema. The use of sound is non diegetic sound and voice over narration. As they look at her she suddenly turns back into her disguise and the audience look away as the channel commercial represents the fragrance as Marylyn’s scent. As once Marylyn was asked what you wear to bed. She answered five drops of channel No5.this became the biggest success of channel No5 and still continues till this day.      
LINKS
http://www.suite101.com/content/icons-chanel-no-5-perfume-a44263
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:JyQ8CqiGwrEJ:en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chanel_No._5+channel+no+5+marilyn+monroe&cd=9&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=uk

TEXT 3-Bvlgari perfume kate moss -2008

RESEARCH
Seeing is believing, as they say, so Bvlgari has collaborated with the most winsome supermodel within the industry, the heart and soul of the modelling world, the core reason women aspire to pose in front of the camera - Kate Moss.
Bvlgari first paired with Kate Moss in 2006, when she posed for the re-launch of Pour Femme, a fragrance created by perfumer Sophia Grojsman several years previous. In 2008, Bvlgari opted to lend a more sophisticated touch to its jasmine perfume with a harmonious variation called Jasmine Noir (Black Jasmine) and the stellar charm of Kate Moss, who fronted the world wide campaign in order to help satisfy consumers seeking a rarer sensation.
So successful was the campaign, Kate Moss and her innate style, that spoke to millions from the pages of Vogue, inspired the creators of Bvlgari, provoking them into creating an assortment of eyewear based upon the precious necklace and diamond studs she wore during the advertisement Bvlgari Jasmine Noir.  
Print advertisment
ANALYSIS
The commercial begins with a long shot of Kate moss swaying in drapes as a close up of her face is shown to show the audience that Kate moss stars in the commercial of the new Bvlagari perfume. A close up shot then appears as she come from behind the curtains and makes eye contact with the audience, a close up shot of the perfume bottle is shown spinning in slow motion as this represents the perfume as a very sensual and passionate scent. a medium shot of kates slender naked back is shown as the shot dissolves  into a scene of the perfume bottle spinning across the screen in slow motion. The use of sound is non diegetic sound of a French song as the perfume design is French which also matches the theme of the commercial. The advertisement is set in black and white as it is represented as a historic French theme.        
LINKS
http://www.sunglasses-shop.co.uk/sunglassesnews/october-2009/Kate-Moss-for-Bvlgari.asp 
How is it similar/different to your texts?
The Bvlgari commercial is similar to my text as it uses the typical iconographies and style to my contemporary texts. It also features Kate moss as the model promoting the perfume as this also represents its similarity to my texts as she is the most contemporary of models. The text is similar to my text as the use of cinematography and sexual connotations used to represent Kate moss are also promoted in similar conventions. However the use of style and theme in the commercial is vintage and elegant as the fragrance is being promoted from a black and white theme as the perfume bottle is in colour this also shows the use of technology and difference to my contemporary texts. This shows how the society has changed as the commercial uses a size zero model as contemporary commercials use plus size models.
OTHER TEXTS
Cindy Crawford - Revlon Intimate Perfume (1987)

Xia Xiang Perfume (1990)

Kate Moss Perfume by Kate Moss (2006)

Kate Moss Velevt Hour (2008)

 

Task 2 Additonal book reading/Bibliography (SO FAR)

  • Marie Costantino- 1998- Fashion marketing and PR- china- BT Batsford LTD
Page 22- The consumer-understanding consumers and their buying behaviour draws heavily on psychology, sociology, and anthropology, as well as cultural history.
Page 29-psychograhpy and Motivation –In addition to demographic data, fashion marketers also make substantial use of psychographic data-information on people’s attitudes, values and beliefs as they affect behaviour.
Page 30-Abraham Maslow, whose theory states that people have a hierarchal pyramid of needs.
At the top of Maslow’s pyramid of needs is the need for self-actualization –better understood as ‘the need to be your own person’ often called the ‘I did it my own way ‘syndrome, the need to recognize and accept ourselves as we are, to have our own standards and to live up to them can be seen in the ‘creative’ dresser who has fulfilled all the other needs and has the skill and self-confidence to make their own fashion statements or in the ‘consumer with a conscience’.

Page 32 –another area of consumer personality study concentrates in the analysis of ‘self-concept’. For fashion marketer this approach seems to offer promise, since clothing is itself the most visible way in which we express ourselves. The area of ‘self-concept’ includes
-The self image –how we see ourselves
- The ideal self image –how we think other people see us.
- The social self image-how we think other people see us
-The ideal social self image-how we would like other people to see us.

It could be argued that when we shop for clothing we are ‘rational’ and when we shop for fashion we are ‘emotional;

·         Kate Haycock -1994-Dealing with eating disorders-East sussex-wayland

Page 7-‘anorexia is often seen as the slimmer’s disease-a diet that gone too far.However, the true cause of the disease is often due to psychological problems’.
Page 9-‘Society places a great value on being slim, this encourages women to diet and weight watch’.
Teenagers, especially girls tend to worry about their weight.
Page 11-‘pressue to be slim’, Anorexia is also agonizing common among people whose jobs is to be fit, slim and beautiful, such as models, athletes and ballet dancers. They become so obsessed with the need to be a certain shape fir their career. That they develop a distorted relationship with food. 
Self image is central to the problems of eating disorders. Along with the rest of society many young people fell that the way they look is important for being accepted and liked. They feel that if they can look right everything else will be alright too. Being a certain size or weight can thus very quickly become an obsession. They see it as the key to sorting out all the confusion they feel. this can lead to a preoccupation will eating and food.
Many young people have a very distorted picture of themselves. They look in the mirror and think they are ugly, fat, and spotty when in reality they look fine and are no different to anyone else.
Page 30-In the west, the opposite is now true. We have more then enough to eat. But it is slenderness that is attractive. Women who keep their figures are admired, even if this involves a great deal of unhappiness and deprivation.  
In the media being slim especially for women, is part of being attractive, successful, happy, popular, sexy, and fashionable and in control of you life. We are bombarded on a daily basis with images of slim models and actresses.
Page 31-Millions of people go on diets many because they are influenced by society’s message that if they can only shed that extra few kilograms they will be more attractive, sexy, popular and successful.
Page 32-the pressure on women in particular, to be slim can lead to a distorted view of their body image.
Page 40-such a shape has become fashionable, but only thirty years ago people considered Marylyn Monroe one of the most beautiful women ever and a symbol of the ‘female ideal’ Monroe however had a voluptuous ,curvy body and wore size 16 dresses, it just shows how quickly the ideal shape can change.

In the late 1950's and early 1960's,actress Marylin Monroe's curvy,size 16 figure was considered the height of fashion.
The mid to late 1960’s saw twiggy’s waif like size 8 figure take control of the fashion world. It is impossible for all women to be societies’ ideal shape’.

 ·         Caroline Warbrick-2002-Eting disorders-Britain

Page 24-Thin is good-Besides bombarding us with powerful and often conducting messages about food. The media also sends out strong messages about how people should look. In the media being slim is seen as part of being happy, attractive, successful, popular and fashionable.
Television, magazines and cinema all send out the messages that fat is bad, thin is good, this affects the way that people come to think about themselves and others.

Task 1 Textual Analysis



Channel No5

The short film advertisement of channel No5 perfume starring Nicole Kidman uses fast zooms and close ups of the stars facial expressions to establish the love connection between the leading male and female stars. Also long shots and point of view shots from below of Nicole Kidman portray her glamorous appeal towards the audience. The use of back lighting and low key lighting used on Nicole portrays her fame as a glamorous idol towards the audience as at the beginning of the advertisement she is shown to be escaping from the paparazzi as she is portrayed as a VIP.

The first scene of the advertisement shows a medium shot of Rodrigo santoro 'the prince' watching a big spotlight rising into the sky as he begins to narrate the epic love story of the theme of Moulin rouge. The mise-en-scene represents a typical love scene throughout the advertisement with night and moonlight, as Nicole steps out of the car she begins to run in the middle of the streets of New York times square as she is seen by paparazi,this also portrays her reputation as she is a famous, important star. Dressed in an elegant long gown, she runs in front of a taxi and a camera flashes in her face, the use of top lighting and a close up of her facial expression is shown as shocking as she feels she must run away. As the prince enters a zoom of both the male and female stars sitting in the back of a taxi, oblivious to her appearance appears as this shows the love connection between the two.

The use of non digetic sound and voice over narration by Rodrigo creates a romantic and tragic atmosphere reflecting the tragedy from Romeo and juilet,another epic love story directed by Baz lurhman. Many scenes within the advertisement uses jump cuts, fades and dissolves to establish the tragedy behind Nicole’s famous reputation as she is seen longing for a love relationship with her hero .The use of a slow motion montage is shown with continuous close ups of her shocking face as she is shown to have abandoned her career and has become breaking news to the world.

The advertisement is produced by film director Baz Lurhman, as he uses the theme of his epic movie Moulin Rouge. Nicole Kidman also starred in the movie as she is also promoting the movie and the fragrance of Channel No5.The advertisement genre is romance as the iconographies of the love theme from Moulin Rouge creates a poetic, romantic atmosphere of the love connection between Nicole Kidman and Rodrigo santoro.The advertisement is set in New York times square as Channel is a top designer brand as new York is also a fashion capital. The use of style is elegant and romantic with city lights set in the night.

Nicole Kidman is represented as a famous idol that everyone looks up to, her character is portrayed as a sex symbol for men as she is an entertainer for the male audience, this also reflects the patriarchal society and reinforces subordination of women. However the Male star Rodrigo falls in love with Nicole without knowing who she really is, this reflects his feminine side as he writes love poems as he express his love for her. This shows the alternative side of the male representation in the advertisement as to most she is portrayed as a sex symbol and provides the entertainment for men. However the advertisement also portrays women as passive as the prince is shown dominant as Nicole is weak and unhappy until she met her prince and he gave her strength to continue with her career, as in the last scene of the advertisement a close up of her face is shown looking back at the prince and smiling as she feels happy again, walking down the red carpet.Although there is a large Chanel double C illuminated in lights outside the garret, Chanel No 5 is not actually featured in the film, being present only in the final shot in the form of a pendant made of 687 diamonds in the shape of a  No 5. 

The text is targeted at a femaleaudience however is also appeals to a male audience as it shows the male attention Nicole brings to herself with the channel fragrance. This also reflects the influence it has on audiences as the target market may find this appealing and therefore become attracted to the product. However the stars may also appeal to the audience as Nicole Kidman’s fans may be attracted to the advertisement simply because of her or fans of Moulin rouge.

The ideologies and values behind the text is feminism and the satisfaction of beauty and attention, as it wants the audience to feel the emotions Nicole Kidman feels in the advertisement however the negative values portray and influence the audience of vanity and glamour, although the advertisement portrays this through Nicole’s emotions as it shows the sadness and tragedy of her fame as she wants to run away with her prince. The narrative uses enigma codes as Moulin Rouge was an epic romantic tragedy. The uses of narrative roles are a prince, the princess and the villains are shown to be the paparazzi as they invade her life and take away her one desire. 


Heat - Beyonce

The heat advertisement by Beyonce uses close ups and pan shots to establish the sex appeal of Beyonce’s new fragrance. The first scene of the advertisement uses a close up shot showing the fragrance bottle opening with steam this portrays the connotations of the word heat. There are continuous close ups and medium shots, cutting and dissolving into each scene establishing the heated atmosphere of Beyonce as she markets the product with too much emphasis on her sensual passion, and
gyrates partially exposing her breasts, As she is  being sexually represented in a provocative manner promoting her fragrance.Beyonce is dressed in a short red silk dress, in a steam room with low key lighting and red spot lights, this also portrays the connotations of the fragrance heat. The use of diegetic sound plays in the background by Beyonce’s cover of fever originally sang by Peggy lee, as she sings along with the track.
The advertisement was produced and directed by Jake Nava and the advertising campaign was made by photographer Michael Thompson. It is scheduled for late night after 9pm as the sexual content is shown explicit and has been said ‘’it is too sexy for British television’’.The advertisement shows iconographies of romance as the vase of roses and Beyonce’s passion of heat connote romance .the advertisement is set In a steam room where beyonce walks around in her short red silk dress promoting the fragrance, the steam room also connotes the title of the fragrance heat.
The representation of beyonce is very proactive and sexual as she is also targeting the male audience with her sensual passion for her fragrance. This also reinforces the representation of beyonce as a sex symbol for male entertainment. However the perfume is target at females and Beyonce’s fans. The ideologies and values behind the text are feminism and feeling good as beyonce also sings her cover of the song fever which connotes love and passion. She is also underpinning that wearing the perfume makes u feel the passion and heat of the fragrance.  


Diamonds Emporio Armani


As Beyonce enters the stage a long shot of her body appears as she shakes her hips from side to side towards the microphone along with the jazz band, a silver spotlight appears on her face as she begins to sing her cover of diamonds are a girls best friend, originally sung by Marylyn Monroe .This connotes the title of the new Emporio Armani perfume, diamonds. the fast pace of the commercial establishes the elegant style of the new perfume as the continuous cuts of flashing lights, the jazz band playing and shots of beyonces creates a montage before the climax of the song. In the advertisement Beyonce is wearing a short dress made from diamonds this also connotes the theme of the commercial as the fragrance is called diamonds. The use of lighting creates a glamorous style as a silver spotlight is continuously shining on Beyonce where as the jazz band are in the back with low key lighting this also portrays Beyonce as a diva as she is shown dominant as the star as the jazz band only consists of male musicians.
A medium shot is shown of a hand holding the perfume bottle as we hear the sound of glass breaking as the hand smashes the bottle down on to diamonds this also connotes the meaning of the song as beyonces sings diamonds are a girls best friends, as she performs the song with aggression and powerful dominance showing she is materialistic for diamonds. A close up of the bottle is shown spinning around with diamonds falling down as beyonces finishes performing the commercial. As the commercial finishes the logo of emporio Armani and the title of the perfume appears along with the question can you resist? This is targeting the female audience as the commercial is a temptation of wanting the fragrance. As the famous phrase of diamonds are a girls best friends by Marylyn Monroe.

A medium shot is shown of a hand holding the perfume bottle as we hear the sound of glass breaking as the hand smashes the bottle down on to diamonds this also connotes the meaning of the song as beyonces sings diamonds are a girls best friends, as she performs the song with aggression and powerful dominance showing she is materialistic for diamonds. A close up of the bottle is shown spinning around with diamonds falling down as beyonces finishes performing the commercial. As the commercial finishes the logo of emporio Armani and the title of the perfume appears along with the question can you resist? This is targeting the female audience as the commercial is a temptation of wanting the fragrance. As the famous phrase of diamonds are a girls best friends by Marylyn Monroe.

From Marilyn Monroe to Twiggy-RESEARCH

Marilyn Monroe often claimed to be blasse about fashion and clothes, but she was extremely strategic about what she wore. Few other celebrities have displayed such genius for carefully orchestrating their image. She singlehandedly created her iconic look - platinum blonde hair, inviting red pout and killer dresses to accentuate her perfect hourglass figure.Monroe dressed for men. Her outfits only ever had one purpose - to show off her body which she understood was the key to her success.While her blonde tresses, beauty spot and red lipstick are often cited as key elements of her style, her look was actually more complex. Great intelligence and thought went into its creation. Use the following lesser known Marilyn Monroe style facts to understand how she used clothes to her advantage.Over the decades our ideal body shape and size has changed from the voluptuous screen goddesses such as Jayne Mansfield, Marilyn Monroe, Bridget Bardot and Ursula Andress to the size zero celebrities of today. If you look back to the 1940s and 50s the average dress size was a 12-14. Now, in 2010, the ideal shapes of our screen icons have changed in a very worrying way towards size 8 and 00s of Victoria Beckham, Kate Moss, Paris Hilton, Madonna and Cheryl Cole.
Four years after Marilyn Monroe’s death in 1962, a British model named Twiggy ushered in the trend that a fashion model – and by extension any desirable woman – must be a size 0 or 2 (in the old days, size 3 or 5) in order to be fashionable or as it has been portrayed in countless films and magazines, desirable. Thin is in. You can never be too rich or too thin. The clichés go on and on. Sophia Loren and Raquel Welch, hour-glass actresses who predated the trend, survived and flourished but by the mid-1970’s, thin blonde Farrah Fawcett represented the aspired to look. That look has not been challenged in almost forty years. Even Madonna, who may have begun her career with heavier thighs, dutifully lost the weight as she ascended the heights of fame in the late 80’s/90’s possibly just to stop hearing about her added pounds from the press.


Twiggy: I Wanted To Look Like Marilyn Monroe
NEW YORK — Back in the Mod '60s, when Twiggy conquered London and fashion changed forever, the waif of a teen with huge eyes, a boyish bob and long legs craved the glamour and curves of a different icon."Whether you're thin, fat, small, dark, blond, redhead, you wanna be something else," said the world's first boldface supermodel. "I wanted a fairy godmother to make me look like Marilyn Monroe. I had no boobs, no hips, and I wanted it desperately."What she wanted was all around her: fuller-figure models with names nobody remembers, many of them middle-class or upper-crust older girls biding their time before landing husbands. Absent any of that, what Twiggy had was extreme youth, a thirst for fashion and triple-layered false eyelashes that fed her right into the decade's social revolution alongside the Beatles and Pop art


The Era
The Look of the Day for Women
1800'sA large body is a sign of health and fertility. Corsets narrow the waist and enhance the bust.
1890'sActress Lillian Russell at 200 lbs. or 91 kg. is the most celebrated beauty of the time.
1910'sParis designer creates slim sheath dresses, declares that breasts are “out”.
1920'sEra of the flat-chested, slim-hipped flapper. First dieting craze of the 20th Century begins.
1950’s & 1960’sVoluptuous full figured shapes of Marilyn Monroe and Jayne Mansfield are popular.
1967British model Twiggy (5’6 or 168 cm. and 91 lbs. or 41 kg.) arrives on the scene – and the diet industry explodes.
1970’s & 1980’sModels gradually become taller, thinner and begin to show toned muscle definition. Breasts make a fashion come-back.
Early 1990’sWaif-like figure of Kate Moss presents a wasted “heroin chic” look and a pre-teen body.
Late 1990’sTall, very thin models with no visible body fat and muscles highly toned by hours of working out. Large breasts remain in style – but are rare in this body type without the help of breast implants.
The average North American woman is 5’4 or 163 cm and 140 lbs. or 64 kg.

Models in the 1970’s weighed 8% less than the average woman. By the 1990’s models weighted 23% less.
2000 and beyondReal bodies come in all shapes and sizes.

…Set your own trend!!!